Wednesday morning I took a bus to Puerta Natalas. I had heard from another backpacker the night before that a hostel called Nikos rented you tents, stoves, sleeping bags and so on and that the owner was awesome. So, I set out...arranging to meet my newly made columbian friends (Rene and Nancy) at a bar Thurs. evening.
I safely arrived at Puerta Natalas walked to Nikos and landed myself a comfy room and all the equiptment I needed for the next day. Still unsure if I was going to meet up with my new friends I was determined to do the trek myself. I ran into a woman who had just finished it and she said that it was safe...but did i know how to camp...hmm...had to think about that...I was up for the challenge. I believe my parents prepared me well for what I was about to undertake...thanks mom and dad...dad you would have been proud of my fire!
I ran out bought a pan, some rainproof pants, a cup, matches, gas...and so on. I went to meet up with Nancy and Rene but the bar was closed...bummer...crossed my fingers our path would cross.
Later that night I started packing...knowing all the weight would be on my back for four days in god knows what type of terrain so layers had to be the key. THEN...a call came in for me...my friends made it and they where on the way to NIKOS! YEAH!
When Nancy and Rene arrived we decided to all head out in the morning ...they would start the trek with me but after the first day they would take an alternate hike...so I was on my own after that...the ease into the trek would be a good one so I was happy for even a day of company.
Thursday morning we grabbed the 7am bus...and we were off. We arrived in Torres Del Paine 3 hours later. BEAUTIFUL!!
WE set up camp, got on our layers and were off for the first leg of the journey...the famous horns mountains (you will recognize them below)...a 7 hour hike in total! I dont even fully know how to discribe the beauty...it was an awesome trek and we traveled well together. We finally got to the final 45 minute scramble up a ton of boulders to the reward at the top!!!! Awesome!!! On the way back a blizzard started. I walked faster so I made my way back to camp...
arriving about an hour before them and had a nice hot fire and food ready for when they arrived...I was very proud...
they called me their angel...they are so wonderful and it was an incredibly amazing thing that I met them...they will be in my life for a long time...good people always are. We had a good meal and tucked in for the VERY cold night.
The next morning we said our good byes...unsure if we would meet up again...but made plans to meet at the glaciers and if that failed at the restaurant in Puerta Natalas on Sunday night for a reward dinner...by the way...the restaurant we ate at Afrigonia was absolutely incredible...a mix of Kenya and Patagonia that melted in your mouth...(Rohan that part was for you...I will try to get more food details in on other blog entries)
I was off on my own...a bit scared but I was determined to make it. 7 hours to the next free camp... It was an amazing journey. I saw a person maybe every couple of hours and that was just a quick ahola and nothing more. I arrived in the next camp exhausted...set up camp...made some food...put on my layers and walked into the valley...amazing again, completely different then the day before but amazing!! I could not head far because it was getting dark, cold and I was tired. 8pm I headed into my tent (there were about 5 other tents scattered around...not many)...I had a cup a hot tea, put on my layers and played a game of solitare...then was out by 9. Rough cold night...slept the best I could. Woke at 6am eyes totally swollen from the cold and sun exposure the day before...swelling didnt go down until noon! I immediately packed up and was out of the camp by 8am and on to the next camp...8 hours away.
I arrived in Pehoe the half way point...had a cup of hot coffee, a cookie, put my feet up for 30 minutes and then pushed on to Greys camp ground another 4 hours away...incredible...this is where the glacier was... probably my favorite part of the journey...they are the most incredible blue I have ever seen...the photos can only capture a bit of the color and granduer of them...the sound they make when they crack is amazing!! It sounds like thunder and echos all over, almost makes you shake!
I arrived around 5, set up camp and got a warm welcome from the Park Ranger...little did I know where that would lead...I then set off for the glacier look out...with an invite to cook in the currently closed refuge when I got back...and to possibly even use one of the bunkbeds if it was incredibly cold (which of course it was)...
The look out was AMAZING!! I sat for hours...had a great conversation with a lovely man from Spain who was also traveling on his own. We hiked another hour to get closer to the glacier and to continue our great conversation...I love it when you meet someone that leaves a mark on your mind...he was a great person... as the sun started going away I headed back...only knowing his first name and that maybe someday we would run into one another again in another country...I like chance meetings like that, no exchange of number, no email exchange, just the impression...very cool.
I arrived at camp and headed to the refuge for a warm up. It was filled with people and I cooked my food, shared some wine and conversation...and then proceeded to ward off the gropping hands of a 23 year old horney ranger for most of the night...I think he had been in the woods for a bit too long...it was a real pain in the ass and made for a difficult night that is for sure! I would have rather slept in the cold but I got myself into the situation and had to menuver myself out with great caution.
I left at 6am pack on my back EXTREMELY tired from laying awake afraid to fall asleep...but no harm was done to me and the Ranger was extremely apologetic the next morning. I said no harm done but I have to go NOW...on my journey back I came up with many a screenplay idea of a woman alone in the woods hunted by a crazy horney ranger...yeah, I could have done without that portion of the trip, but it was a good test and I passed...I soon forgot and arrived safely at my final destination 4 hours later...the W finished...I was extremely proud of myself for pushing through and making it!! OH, I almost forgot on my way out to Greys I ran into Nancy and Rene...they were heading back from the glacier and we promised to meet up in Puerta Natalas for our final meal!
What a journey...so many things went through my head...so many ideas...mind altering...I truly believe after this journey I will never be the same person I was...I will be better...I have regained a faith in myself, in humanity, in nature, in life that I believe I lost for a bit or misplaced...but no longer...I believe again...in everything.
Here is a tiny photo journey, I have a million more pictures all amazing, but hopefully this will give you a taste of it...still awe inspiring to me...
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